Food for Thought: Yong Lee Restaurant

Stepping into Yong Lee is like going back in time.  You'll be transported back to the sixties, when coffee shops had their stalls lined up at the shop-front and seating was provided at the 'back-of-shop'.  There are wooden tables and chairs, and enough old photographs, calendars and sponsored clocks (carrying different product names) to keep you busy while waiting for your food.

Although many such coffee shops still survive in Bangkok, particularly in Rattanakosin and Chinatown, Yong Lee (at the corner of Sukhumvit Road and Soi 15) is much more accessible for tourists who depend largely on public transportation.  Located midway between Asoke and Nana, it is a mere 5-minute walk from either of these stations.

Looking in from outside, the restaurant doesn't look too inspiring.  Two sides of the corner shop are open to the pavement which means diners are exposed to the noise and fumes from the heavy vehicular traffic of Sukhumvit Road.  Lighting is poor, and the old rafters (don't look up) seem to not have been cleaned in ages!  The staff's attitude towards customers is brisk and no-nonsense but, thankfully, they are not outright rude.

However, the aroma wafting from its kitchen is tantalising enough to tempt anyone into venturing forth.  The serving at Yong Lee is quite ample.  Our afternoon snack of wonton noodle and a plate of steamed chicken with mushroom was really sufficient for a full meal.

Char siew wonton noodle

Although their wonton noodle is not the best in Bangkok, it is still good by comparison to many that I have eaten in Singapore.  It is prepared following 'old-tine' recipe handed down through the generations.  The noodle is soft, just the way that I like my noodles to be. But the best part about the dish is its soup and dumplings (wonton).  The soup is prepared using stock made from dried fish (tik por) which, is a very traditional method of preparing wonton noodle soup.  The dumpling's skin is thin and melts in your mouth.  Coarsely ground pork (mixture of lean and fat meat) is marinated with soya sauce, pepper and sesame oil, giving it a most delectable taste.  The fats adds smoothness to the texture.  Because the meat is not ground too fine, you can actually eat and taste the pork.  Many stalls, nowadays, tend to grind the meat too fine resulting in a paste-like texture.

Steamed chicken sauteed in oyster sauce and mushroom

The steamed chicken (pak chum kai) was sauteed in oyster sauce and a variety of mushroom.  It was a tasty dish and would have been even better had they not used mainly chicken breast meat (not my favourite part of a chicken).

Yong Lee's serving portions are generous beyond expectations.  They have also managed to maintain the standard of the food over the years, at the same time keeping prices reasonably low.  No wonder, it is always crowded during meal times.  Take note that they close for the day quite early (or as soon as the food is sold out), so arrive early if you are planning on having dinner here.

Yong Lee Restaurant
Corner of Soi 15 and Sukhumvit Road
Bangkok 

Ambiance: 8 (for nostalgia)
Service: 6.5
Food: 6.75
Pricing: $
Recommended Dishes: Wonton Noodle