Monday, March 30, 2009

Food for Thought: Make-your-own Ice Kachang

Nothing gives me greater pleasure than being creative with my food.



In this case I am talking about making my own ice kachang. The usual ingredients must not be forgotten - chendol, lima beans, jelly cubes and palm seeds. Then bury these beneath a mountain heap of shaved ice. Decorate your mountain in brown, green and red and let the syrup soak into the shaved ice. Finally, top it with bits of fruit cocktail and it is ready for your enjoyment.



Courtyard Cafe
Garden Hotel
14 Balmoral Road

Ambience: 5/10
Service: 5/10
Food: 5.75/10

Recommended dishes: Nasi Lemak buffet, make-your-own Ice Kachang

Food for Thought: Dolce Vita @ The Mandarin Oriental

Dolce Vita, located by the poolside of Singapore's Mandarin Oriental, offers stunning views of the city's skyline and Marina Bay. However, its best feature is the authentic Mediterranean, Spanish and Italian cuisine presented with a contemporary touch put together by award-winning Italian Chef Marco Pedrelli.

Dolce Vita has won awards such as Singapore's Top Restaurant by Wine and Dine and Singapore Tatler's Best Restaurant in 2007 and 2008.

I personally like Dolce Vita for its intimate ambiance. Tucked away in a quiet corner on the fifth floor of the hotel, it is accessible from the pool. By night, the place is transformed into an oasis of peace and tranquility. That is why I chose to spend our wedding anniversary here.

The restaurant offers a 6-course degustation menu for $110 per person not including taxes and service charges. Do not be put off by the foreign sounding names that the Chef has given to the various courses, the Maitre D' will be at hand to explain what and how each item is prepared.

We started our repasse with appetisers - French Atlantic Oysters for my darling wife and Asparagus with Wild Mushrooms for me. French Atlantic Oysters, particularly those cultivated around the estuary of the Loire River, have reached a certain level of refinement and are famous for their excellent taste and texture. They are generally more expensive since only a selected few are cultivated per square metre thereby allowing them to fatten in a rather non-competitive and clean, disease-free environment. No one can dispute that these oysters, no matter how simply served, are among the very best in the world.

Asparagus with wild mushrooms
French Atlantic oysters
Soup followed the appetizers. Being a seafood aficionado, she naturally settled for Lobster Bisque while I opted for the Zucchini Flower soup since it is not everyday that we get these flowers in Singapore. Zucchini flower is the quintessential Italian flower used in cookery and they are best picked in the summer months when they are most flavourful. Both the soups were very light without leaving any aftertaste of creamy richness. We didn't feel jelak after finishing the soup.

Lobster bisque
Zucchini flower soup

Our main course consisted of Seared Monkfish, Moroccan Lamb with fennel stewed in a Tajim and Suckling Pig served with Wild Mushrooms and Apricot chutney.

Seared monkfish

The monkfish far surpassed even the mahi-mahi darling wife had at Daniel Boulud's DB Bistro Moderne in New York City. While it is one of the most bizzare looking of all Atlantic fishes, its meat is amazingly fine and delicate. Food-lovers know that the secret to successful monkfish cookery is to avoid overcooking. The Chef had taken great care to char the fish only lightly on the outside leaving its white meat slightly undercooked to keep it moist and tender on the inside. The combination of greens, seasoning and potato gave the fish a completeness of taste rarely achieved.

Moroccan Lamb with Fennel

I was overwhelmed with joy to find Moroccan Lamb on the menu. Of all the meats, lamb is my favourite, especially when it is 'milk-fed'. For this dish, Dolce Vita uses only the choicest 'milk-fed' lamb - lamb that is fed exclusively on its mother's own milk. The flavour of such lambs, normally not more than 6 weeks old when slaughtered, are believed to be finer than older lambs. These young lambs are highly prized in certain parts of Europe during Easter when they are used for spit-roasting.

While I have eaten some of the best lamb dishes in Europe, I have thus far, found only one place in Asia that prepares it well (and that has to be Crepes & Co in Bangkok). At Dolce Vita, the pieces of lamb were rendered so soft and tender, it almost melted in my mouth. The sauce was thick and robust with the fragrance of fats from the lamb, sweetness of dates and figs and pungentness of fennel.

Suckling pig with wild mushrooms and apricot chutney

The Chef has ingeniously compressed deboned pieces of meat from the roasted suckling pig into a square patty topped with sweetened apricot chutney. Most of the fats had been removed - a healthy approach to eating suckling pig. The sweetness of the chutney complemented the delicate texture of the pork fillet which was baked until crispy on the outside.

All the 3 main courses were so good, it was impossible for us to decide which was the best dish. At the end, we had to conclude that they were all equally good.

Trio of mousse
Coconut ice cream with pineapple jelly

Although the dessert were not as elaborate in its presentation as the rest of the meal, it was delightful to the taste. My trio of strawberry, apricot and melon mousse was to die for. Darling wife's pineapple jelly with coconut ice cream was simply out of this world!

And because it was our wedding anniversary, the Chef presented us with a special gift - a chocolate mousse large enough to feed a party of ten.

Compliments of the Chef - chocolate mousse cake

Dolce Vita
Poolside, Level 5
The Mandarin Oriental
56 Raffles Avenue



Ambiance: 8/10
Service: 8.5/10
Food: 8.5/10
Pricing: $$$$$
Recommended Dishes: Suckling Pig, Grilled Monkfish, Moroccan Lamb, French Atlantic Oysters, Zuchinni Flower Soup

Wednesday, March 04, 2009

Food for Thought: Chendol House 88

Chendol is a popular dessert in Melaka. You find chendol stalls all over town, at almost every street corner. Among them, Chendol House 88 stands out as being one of the better ones.


It is housed in a dilapidated looking corner terrace unit on Jonker Street. The cavernous interior is part antique gallery and part cafe. Besides chendol, they also serve nyonya kueh-kueh,laksa and other popular local dishes.


In spite of its large seating capacity, the place is almost always crowded, so expect to wait especially when you drop in during the weekends.

They use authentic gula melaka - definitely a plus point. The lavish helping of gula melaka is thick and sticky. Likewise, the santan is thick and creamy. However, it is a tad too sweet to my liking. Also the santan didn't taste as fragrant as some others.


Chendol House 88
88 Jonker Street
Melaka

Ambiance: 6.5
Service: Self-service
Food: 5.75
Pricing: $
Recommended dishes: chendol, laksa, nyonya kueh kueh

Monday, March 02, 2009

Food For Thought: Kopi Tiam in Melaka


Sometimes, the best local food can be had, not in lavish restaurants, but rather in old-style coffee shops. When in Melaka town, I will definitely make it a point to have at least one meal at one of my favourite coffee shops. It is located at the junction of Jalan Bunga Raya and Renaissance Hotel.

This coffee shop is usually crowded but its patrons normally do not linger around too long - they are what we term the 'eat-and-go' crowd. So it would pay to just wait a while until a table is available which normally shouldn't take too long.

What I find most irresistible are its wanton noodle, char kway teow and deep-fried spring rolls. I have been asked to rate them according to preference but have found this difficult to do. Not because it is a chore but more so because it is quite impossible to rate 3 dishes that are all equally good.



Char siew wonton noodle
Dumpling soup

Would I be exaggerating if I said everything about the wanton noodle is just perfect? To me, the texture of the noodle is of utmost importance. It should not be too rubbery and chewy, neither must it be too soft and soggy. While most stall-holders in Singapore would cook the noodles first in boiling hot water then immediately dip it in cold water to prevent over-cooking, this particular stall-holder is so skilled and adept that she allows the noodles to be cooked long enough in hot water and immediately transfers it to the plate to be mixed with various sauces including light soya sauce, chili, lard and sesame oil - and it is ready to be served at the right texture. The wanton and prawn dumplings are also very good.

Deep-fried spring roll and yam roll

I have this special connection with deep-fried spring rolls and it is the one item that I will never miss when having dim sum. Each bite brings back cherished memories of dim sum meals with the family at restaurants in Singapore that no longer exist such as Mayflower, Peking Garden, Singapore Conference Hall, Tropicana, Chevron etc.

The ones at this Melaka coffee shop are so shiok, you actually get to taste the sweetness of the turnips and enjoy the crisp of the pohpiah skin. And the best part of it is that it leaves none of the bad after-taste of rancid oil.

Char kway teow

Most char kway teow in Melaka are dark (plenty of sweet sauce) but not this particular stall. They will offer you the sweet sauce separately. I prefer mine hot with plenty of chili sauce. The egg is slightly over-cooked (or burnt to put it bluntly), the bean sprouts on the other hand are undercooked and crispy, and the kway teow is cooked just right with enough lard to give it the smoothness. There are also bits of green chye sim, squid and of course fresh cockles (but we opted to leave this out).

Time and again, I have told myself that I would try the chicken rice when I next visit ... well, perhaps the next visit. Even without the chicken rice, every visit to this coffee shop has been a most satisfying one for me.

Coffee Shop
Jalan Bunga Raya (corner of Renaissance Melaka Hotel)
Melaka



Ambiance: 7.5/10 (if you like reminiscence)
Service: 7.5/10 (all the stall-holders are friendly including the coffee-shop owner)
Food: 8/10
Pricing: $
Recommended dishes: Wanton noodle, char kway teow, fried spring roll