Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Food for Thought: St Pierre

Dinner with wine pairing at St Pierre Restaurant was definitely the highlight of my dining experience this year. I have absolutely nothing but good things to say about Chef Emmanuel Stroobant and his food. Owner Chef Stroobant has worked very hard to put his restaurant on the map of culinary distinction. In fact, his restaurant is the only Singapore establishment to earn an admission to Relais & Chateaux – the definitive guide to the world’s finest hotels and restaurants.

Over the years, St Pierre has received numerous accolades.  Starting with Best New Restaurant Award for Excellence in 2002, it went on to receive many other awards including in 2007, the Restaurant of the Year Excellence Award by World Gourmet Summit. Chef Stroobant also received the Chef of the Year Award in 2002. In that same year, Wine and Dine magazine credited the restaurant with the Most Innovative Menu.

Like world-renown Chef Ferran Adria whom he greatly admires, Chef Stroobant started training, at a very young age, in the kitchens of Michelin star restaurants of Belgium where he was born. In 1987, he was named Best Apprentice Chef and at 23, he opened his own restaurant, Le Bal, in his home town, Liege.

Soon, the kitchens of the world beckoned him and he re-located to Australia before moving to Malaysia, and finally setting up home in Singapore. While working in Malaysia, he received the award for Best Expatriate Executive Chef by World Asia Media in 1999.

Posing with the Chef in Black

The evening’s degustation menu consisted of an amuse bouche ensemble of assorted nibbles; Millefeuille of Hokkaido Scallop; Slow poached Maine Lobster; Confit of wild salmon served with wild mushroom duxelle; Low temperature roasted lamb shoulder; Red wine glazed US Beef short rib; and Yuzu scented genoise with goma nougatine, mango sorbet and honey scented feuillantine.

Millefeuille of Hokkaido Scallop

The first appetizer, Millefeuille of Hokkaido Scallop, was good but lacked the wow factor. The pieces of scallop were scented with preserved black truffle, wild chives, ikura, citrus zest and crème fraiche. The crème fraiche, to me, was a tad too wet and milky when it should have been creamy with a velvety smoothness. What made the dish good was the freshness of the scallop which had the ‘melt in your mouth’ texture. This dish was paired with KJ Vintner Reserve Savignon Blanc 2008.

Slow poached Maine lobster

I was really impressed by the second appetizer – the slow poached Maine Lobster served on roasted hearts of Romaine. The garnishing on the plate included sweet garlic confit, parmesan croutons and bottarga emulsion. The lobster, although cooked (I would have preferred sashimi), remained tender and retained its natural sweetness. But what I really enjoyed most about this dish were the charred hearts of Romaine which had a robust woody flavour. It was paired very well with KJ Vintner Reserve Chardonnay 2008.

Chef Stroobant has his way of keeping the best for later. The dishes that arrived at our table ‘from this moment on’ were all of exceptionally high standard.

Confit of wild salmon

The confit of wild salmon served with wild mushroom duxelle was outstanding, to say the least. Wild salmon, unlike its cultivated relatives, tend to be more marbled, moist and rich in flavour, thus making it a popular choice with food gourmand. Chef Stroobant’s clever use of crispy smoked bacon and momotaro tomato infused choron sauce enhanced the natural taste of the wild salmon to even greater heights.

In traditional French cooking, duxelle – a reduction of chopped mushroom (sometimes mushroom stems) and herbs – is used as stuffing. Chef Stroobant used it as a base for the lamb. It was a totally new way of presentation yet it did not distract attention from nor ruin the taste of the dish.

The wild salmon was accompanied by KJ Vintner Reserve Merlot 2006.

Roasted lamb shoulder

Equally outstanding was the low temperature roasted lamb shoulder served with pan grille scented eggplant puree, lamb jus and ratatouille.  The adept Chef roasted the lamb to pure perfection. It is not often that I walk away from a restaurant, happy with how they had done my steak. At St Pierre, I have no complaints, only praises. The meat was very slightly burnt on the outside but delicately tender and succulent on the inside – just the way I like my meats prepared. KJ Grand Reserve Merlot 2006 and KJ Highland Estate Taylor Peak Merlot 2005 accompanied the dish most satisfactorily.

US beef short rib

The last of the main course, though simple in presentation, reigned supreme in its preparation. The red wine glazed US Beef short rib was superbly prepared and its taste quite exquisite. It was served with bone marrow, potato bouchon and organic baby vegetables and paired with KJ Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 and KJ Highland Estate Hawkeye Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2005.

Short ribs or Jacob’s Ladder (as the English call it), are a cut of beef perfect for long cooking as in pot au feu, a classic dish of French origin. Because short ribs tend to be tougher than other cuts, it can be challenging to prepare as a steak. But Chef Stroobant had it proven otherwise, much to my delight.  Just by this dish alone, he has won my admiration and respect.

Yuzu scented Genoise with Goma nougatine

For dessert, Chef Stroobant created Yuzu scented genoise with goma nougatine, mango sorbet and honey scented feuillantine. Everyone loved the dessert and my only complaint was not having enough of it. A very sweet dessert wine, KJ Late Harvest Chardonnay 2006, accompanied.

Chef Stroobant has taken me on a culinary trip that is so sublime that St Pierre, now tops my list of favourite Continental restaurants in Singapore.

St Pierre Restaurant
3 Magazine Road
#01-01 Central Mall

Ambiance – 6.5
Service – 8
Food – 9.5
Pricing - $$$$$
Recommended dishes – Chef Stroobant’s Degustation Menu of the Month

Tuesday, August 03, 2010

My Thoughts for the Day: Eulogy for Mom - Theresa Agnes Goh Ah Soy

Born 1919; Died 2010


To everyone of us, mom is the best.
In my case, mom is better than best; she is extraordinary.

Over the past few days, some of my childhood friends came to mom's wake. All of them remember my mom very fondly and had nothing but good things to say about her. I cannot but agree with them fully.

As the youngest in the family, I spent much time with my mom - going to the market, preparing the daily meals in the kitchen and talking. We talked about many things and shared many thoughts.  Mom was my best teacher.

She taught me to be a good son and a good brother. But she also taught me that to be a good son and brother was not enough. She constantly reminded me to strive to be a good person. Mom taught me well and I am what I am today because of her love and guidance.

Some of you may remember mom as a ravishing beauty. But more than just external beauty, mom possesses great inner beauty. Think of all the superlatives in the dictionary, put them together and you get the perfect description of mom. To me, mom is the embodiment of everything that is good and beautiful.

Most of you already know that I love my mom dearly.  The truth is, I adore her.

When I was ready for marriage, my idea of an ideal wife was someone who is like mom - someone who has all the qualities that mom possesses. And I am indeed thankful to God that He has blessed me so richly with a beautiful mother and an equally beautiful wife.

The 2 most beautiful women in my life - mom and wifey