Food for Thought: Japanese Dining Sun @ CHIJMES

December is a hectic month for many but more so, for us.  Preparation for Christmas and shopping for gifts are interspersed with lunches and dinners with our dearest friends.  You see, both darling wife and I celebrate our birthdays in December.  We have had umpteen meals but I guess the one I should write first about, is my dinner for Lyn at Japanese Dining Sun, CHIJMES.

This restaurant gets a listing in practically every food blog that I know of.  Most are rave reviews.  Personally, I don't understand what all the hype is about, although I must agree that it does deserve mention for 2 things - its minimalist decor and food presentation.  Quality of food, however, does not measure up to the reviews I have read.

Since we were celebrating darling wife's birthday, I was so looking forward to enjoying a kaiseki meal but this was, sadly, not offered.  However, they did have a Hokkaido promotion which promised the freshest ingredients air-flown from Japan.

We ordered several dishes for sharing - tuna sashimi, a beef uramaki (or western sushi), Zensai Mori, and a mixed grill platter.  Darling wife ordered the Ishikari Nabe from the Hokkaido promotion menu.  For dessert, we had 2 servings of Milk Shu Cream with azuki bean paste on the side.

The sashimi maguro was fresh, leaning towards a 'melt-in-the-mouth' texture. This could be because we were eating tuna in winter (in the northern hemisphere) which is the best time for harvesting the fish when its body has a natural built-up of fats.  Though Sun's sashimi was not the best we have eaten in Singapore, it was definitely better than what an average Japanese restaurant has to offer.

Sashimi Maguro

Served together with the sashimi was the beef uramaki.  We liked its presentation especially the minimalist-design crockery.  Regrettably, it did not stand out beyond its presentation.   It wasn't all that bad but it just didn't excite my palate as much as it was visually attractive.  I wish they didn't add so much mayonnaise on top!!!

Beef uramaki

The one dish that was truly a feast for the eye was the Zensai Mori or selection of appetizers.  Had it not been for the fact that the cheek of pork was over-done, I would have given this dish full marks.  Still, the saving grace was that the pork was well marinated and therefore, very tasty.  The other items were very good with varying degrees of complexity in preparation.  The edamame beans, though plain and straightforward in its preparation, provided relief from the robust onslaught of different flavours from the fried crispy shrimp, sauteed Bunashimeji mushroom, black-peppered cheek of pork, and sesame-mayonnaise fried chicken.  The Zensai Mori was our favourite dish.

Zensai Mori

Cheek of pork

Fried crispy prawns

The mixed grill platter was a let-down.  The only item on the platter that we enjoyed was the grilled kurobuta pork in thick caramelised sauce. Everything else was overcooked!

Grilled kurobuta pork in thick caramelised sauce

Mixed grill platter

Birthday gal enjoyed her Ishikari Nabe (salmon soup with fresh picked seasonal vegetables) prepared using the freshest ingredients airflown from Hokkaido.  The salmon was fresh and cooked just right.  The soup was tasty.

Ishikari Nabe

The highlight of the meal has to be the dessert - Milk Shu Cream (fresh cream in puff) served with traditional azuki bean paste on the side.  We ordered 1 to share but ended up ordering a second serving because it was really that good.

Milk Shu Cream

It was very thoughtful of the management to present darling wife a tofu cheese cake with a candle on top.  We appreciated the gesture and it made for a very pleasant end to the meal.

Japanese Dining Sun was crowded even on a Monday evening.  But I gather that it has become so popular mainly because of its affordability.  Our tab for two persons was, surprisingly, under $120.

Japanese Dining Sun

#02-01 CHIJMES

30 Victoria Street

Ambiance:  7.5

Service:  7

Food: 6.5

Pricing: $$$

Recommended dishes: Zensai Mori, Ishikari Nabe, Milk Shu Cream, Sashimi maguro

Food for Thought: Bee Heong Palace Hokkien Restaurant

Numerous dining options are available in the Amoy/Telok Ayer Street area.  There are Japanese, Korean, Continental and even fusion.  For Chinese food lovers, restaurants like Swee Kee Ka Soh and Beng Hiang have been catering to diners for many years.

Darling wife was recently introduced by my cousin, Gracie, to Beng Heong Palace on Telok Ayer Street.  Not entirely new to Hokkien food lovers, Beng Heong has been in business for nearly 30 years and has recently moved from Cecil Street to its current location.

We ordered the set meal with a Duck Salad as an extra dish since this is a favourite of both darling wife and I.  The set meal comprises hae chor, braised half chicken, stir-fried seasonal vegetables, kong bak pao, and double-boiled white fungus with gingko nuts for dessert.

We were pleased with our first dish, the Duck Salad.  We found it to be better than Beng Hiang's but still not as good as the one prepared by Beng Thin Hoon Kee's chef. The dressing was not too starchy but, fortunately for me, too sweet.  The julienne of fruits were freshly cut and as such, the cucumber and melon were crisp and not limp (fortunately).  They were generous with the duck meat which were cut into thin strips to complement the julienne of fruits. 

Duck salad

Hae Chor or prawn rolls was served next.  This is one of my favourite dishes and I like all versions of it - Nyonya, Teochew or Hokkien.  Beng Heong's version is heavy on the meat rather than the prawn.  To achieve the desired texture, the chef added ikan parang paste to the mix.  The Teochew version often has yam paste in it while the Peranakans add water chestnut and chicken innards.  I like them all!  Bee Heong's did not disappoint us either.

Hae Chor or prawn roll

The braised half chicken, prepared in foil, managed to cook well without losing its juiciness.  At the same time, it was able to absorb the marinade.  Chestnut and mui choy were added to make it more flavourful - good for those who enjoy robust tasting food.  I enjoyed this dish very much and wished I had rice to go with its gravy.

Braised chicken with chestnut and mui choy

We chose broccoli over the recommended siu pak choy.  Many eating outlets blanch their broccoli very lightly in water to retain its crunchiness.  I was glad Beng Heong adopted the traditional method of boiling the broccoli until it is sufficiently soft.  This was a plus point for me since I don't really care much for crunchy vegetables unless they are in my salad. 

Boiled broccoli

The last dish was the kong bak pao which was somewhat of a letdown for me.  Pork belly was used but, sadly, not to it best advantage. Pork belly when stewed at the right (low) heat over a long period will give it a delicately smooth texture.  The fatty parts will turn almost gelatinous and should separate itself from the lean when placed in the mouth.  Unfortunately, this was the case.  Also, the meat was a tad too salty for my liking.

Kong bak pao

The complimentary dessert was, on the other hand, light and delightful.  In my opinion, it was a very good ending to the meal.  Especially so when it was served immediately after the kong bak pao as it helped to wash down the saltiness of the dish.

Complimentary dessert

Overall, darling wife and I enjoyed our dinner at Bee Heong Palace.  We particularly like the Duck Salad, prawn roll, braised chicken and the double-boiled white fungus with gingko nuts.

We were also impressed by the service provided by the waitress who had recently arrived from Fujian Province in China.  She had a very pleasant personality, was soft spoken, polite and served us throughout the meal with a smile.  She made our dining experience more enjoyable.

Beng Heong Palace Hokkien Restaurant

134 Telok Ayer Street

Ambiance:  6

Service:  8

Food:  6.75

Pricing: $$

Recommended Dishes: Hae Chor, Braised Chicken, Duck Salad, Double-boiled white fungus with gingko nut

Food for Thought: Big Wong King

Big Wong King, a Chinatown classic, has been for many years a big draw for New Yorkers and tourists who are looking for authentic Chinese food at 'down to earth' prices. It has been around for more than 30 years and as one New York reviewer commented, "it has never failed me".

This is the sort of place you would come for the food. Everything else doesn't matter.  Forget about ambiance or service because you won't find any of these here, anyway. The waiters are loud and impatient; the decor is barebones and rather spartan.  Its owners probably were more concerned with functionality than aesthetics.

But you will not leave this restaurant hungry or angry.  Like us, you will probably leave sated and satisfied. Although some reviewers have noted that portions have become smaller over the years, we found it to be quite generous. In fact, we were not able to finish what was served to us. The congee and noodles came in very huge portions - enough to be shared by two. And if you like your food fast, the kitchen here prepares theirs at breakneck speed.  We didn't have to wait very long as the food were served soon after we placed our orders.

Lunch on our first visit consisted of congee, steamed rice flour crepe, wonton noodle and steamed seasonal vegetable.

Cantonese-style congee

Darling wife's milky white congee looked remarkably bare, at first sight.  She gave it a good stir and lo and behold, thick slices of fish surfaced from within the depths of the bowl.  The congee, using short grain rice, was cooked for long hours in order to achieve its smooth and creamy consistency.  The sweetness of the fish was enhanced by the fragrance of the freshly chopped scallions and toasted peanuts, making Big Wong King's congee a real winner.

Char siew wonton noodle soup

I had, for my main dish, a bowl of wonton noodles.  The most important thing about this dish, to me, was the texture of the noodles.  While there is one camp that prefers it to be chewy and rubbery, I belong to the other camp that prefers it to be soft, but not too soft as to render it soggy and tasteless.  And that was precisely how it was done here at Big Wong King.  To me that was a definite plus point.  For US$5.25, what I got was a bowl of noodles with a generous helping of BBQ pork and plump dumplings.  The dumplings, filled with flavourfully marinated minced pork and shrimps, were really scrumptious. 

Steamed rice flour crepe with kale in oyster sauce

We ordered steamed rice flour crepe (chee cheong fun) and steamed vegetables to go with our main course.  They were both good.  A variety of vegetables were available that day but on the recommendation of the waiter, we decided on stem of kale, not something I would normally settle for.  The ones I had in Singapore were either too fibrous or were overcooked.  At first bite, Big Wong's kale was crunchy but as I continued chewing, I found that the inside was soft and tender - the way I like it.

The steamed rice flour crepe were very thin and filled with boiled prawns.  The crepes were served with light soya sauce without any garnishing.  Like darling wife's congee, its presentation was rather plain but its savoriness was out-of-this-world!  It has to be one of the best Chinese rice flour crepe I have eaten anywhere in the world.

When you are in New York City, don't forget to have a meal at Big Wong King.  Beyond the shadow of a doubt, this is one of the best Cantonese restaurants in NYC's Chinatown.

Big Wong King

67 Mott Street (between Bayard and Canal)

Chinatown, New York City

Ambiance: 5

Service: 5

Food: 8

Pricing: $

Recommended dishes: Wonton noodle, congee with sliced fish, rice flour crepe, steamed vegetable with oyster sauce, roast meats (duck and pork)

Food for Thought: Restaurant Gasthof zur Post, St Gilgen

The family-run hotel and restaurant opened its doors to its first guests in 1330.  At that time it served as a coaching inn.  On inspection, you will find that its foundation and certain portion of its facade dating back to the medieval period are still intact.

Over the years Gasthof zur Post has hosted many famous personalities. In August 1784 the wedding of Mozart's sister Anna Maria, nicknamed 'Nannerl', took place there.  Today, the restaurant offers a rich selection of delicious regional and Austrian specialities, traditional fare and seasonal delicacies. The freshly caught fish from Lake Wolfgang is especially popular. In fact, all ingredients are from the Salzkammergut region thus ensuring freshness.

The waitress recommended trout which was caught that very morning from Lake St Gilgen, only a stone's throw from the hotel.  Darling wife had it poached in Austrian white wine with leeks and other fresh garden greens.

Poached Trout in White Wine

The reason darling wife chose a poached fish dish was because we know that poaching is healthy and more importantly, it brings out the character of delicately flavoured fish such as trout.

 

The chef managed to poach the fish at precisely the right temperature and timing, rendering its meat extremely fine and smooth.  The court boillon is white wine base with herbs and fresh vegetables.  Deviating from the general rule of poaching, the chef used the poaching liquid as the consomme for the dish.  The lightness of the fish dish is well balanced by the robust flavour of its side dish - wasabi mashed potato garnished with chives. The pungent wasabi perfectly complements the slightly sweet tasting potato.  It is not a traditional Japanese dish but a Japanese fusion creation.

Wasabi Mashed Potato

     

I chose Wiener Schnitzel for my main course.  This dish is made up of thin slices of veal coated in breadcrumbs and deep-fried to a dark golden brown colour.  No one can say he has been to Austria without eating this dish which has become part of Viennese or Austrian culture.  It is found on the menu of almost every restaurant in the country.  But not everyone does it with veal; many have, regrettably, substituted pork for veal.

Zur Post has stuck with tradition and used veal.  The Wiener schnitzel arrived piping hot which is how it should be served.  All it took was one bite, and I was convinced that was the best Wiener schnitzel I had ever eaten anywhere in Austria or the world, for that matter.  While the coating was crispy, the veal on the inside was moist and tender.

Wiener Schnitzel

The main dish was served with a potato salad dressed with a rich creamy sauce and sided by a generous heap of lovely lamb's lettuce.  Native to temperate continental Europe and best plucked in spring, this salad leaf is not easily available outside of Europe and even more uncommonly found in Asia and Singapore. I was extremely delighted to have the chance to enjoy the sweet and nutty flavour of this rare salad leaf which I was told, is very expensive because of its delicate and perishable nature.

Potato Salad with Lamb's Lettuce

     

The meal at Restaurnt Gasthof zur Post was one of the best culinary experiences we had during this trip.  I have given a very high 9.5 ranking for food quality and added it to my list of favourite restaurants around the world. 

Restaurant Gasthof zur Post

8 Mozartplatz

St Gilgen, Austria

Ambiance: 9

Service: 7.5

Food: 9.5

Pricing: $$$$

Recommended dishes: Poached Trout in white wine; Wiener Schnitzel, Grilled Sole

People and Places: Berchtesgaden

Bavaria in the southern part of Germany is filled with noteworthy towns and villages, many of which are popular tourist attractions in themselves aside from being bases for both summer and winter sports.

Take Berchtesgaden, for example. Despite being in a remote location, the town and nearby Schoenau am Königsee possess world class sport facilities and is popular with the locals as well as sportsmen from nearby Austria.

Even if you are not there for the sports, you will find many architectural gems within the small township - enough to keep you occupied for a full day. In the area around the Town Square, you will find many restaurants and cellars offering authentic Bavarian cuisine and wines.  Berchtesgaden is one of those European towns which has a special appeal to me so far so that I have visited it more than once.

 

Food for Thought: Ah Loy Thai

Having dined at numerous Thai restaurants including some of the best in Singapore like the highly acclaimed Sabai @ Ngee Ann City, Yingthai on Purvis Street, Sukhotai @ Boat Quay and Thanying @ Amara Hotel, we have finally found our favourite Thai food in a little unpretentious eaterie located on the groundfloor of Shaw Tower, Beach Road.

Ah Loy Thai is run by a husband-and-wife team assisted by several foreign workers.  This is a no-frills establishment which means you wait around until a table is available and expect to wait at least 20-30 minutes during the peak hours.  You then complete your order form and pay up at the cashier.  The food, when ready, will be brought to your table by the foreign helpers.  If you require any extra orders, go back to the cashier.

You will find all of this inconveniences, including the long wait, to be worth the while when you have tasted the food.  They are of surprisingly high quality considering the very affordable pricing.  I don't recall anything costing more than $10 on the order form.

Darling wife and I have eaten here many times over the past 12 months.  Some of our favourite dishes include the following:

Deepfried Fish with Spicy Thai Sauce

Stir-fried Morning Glory

Minced Chicken with Basil

Crispy Mango Chicken

Thai Papaya Salad

Fried Vermicelli with Seafood

Thai Iced Cheng Tng

Aloy Thai Restaurant

100 Beach Road

#01-39/40 Shaw Tower

Ambience: 6

Service: 6

Food: 7.5
Pricing: $

Recommended dishes: All that is featured above.

Food for Thought: Pagi Sore

We were at Bayewood Collection when childhood friend, Tong Leng, felt like having something spicy for dinner.  There are several options in the area but Pagi Sore immediately came to mind.  I have eaten there many times and have never once been disappointed.

The restaurant was started in 1989 in a shop house along Duxton Road.  It is now finally settled, after moving around for a while, at 88 Telok Ayer Street, Far East Square.   20-year old Pagi Sore has received numerous awards including the Excellent Food Award in 2002 and is listed among the Top 50 Restaurants in Singapore by The Straits Times.

Its signature dishes are unmistakably the popular Cumi Bali, Petai Udang Pedas, Ikan Otah Kukus and Ayam Bali.

However, I thought we should try something different and so our parade of dishes included Rendang Sapi, Ikan Assam Pedas,  Ayam Gulai, Terung Tau Chio, and Asparagus Udang Belacan.  For dessert we had pudding lapis mangga, alpukat and sirsak sorbet.

The rendang sapi was tasty but lacked the fragrance of fried coconut.  Also, I found the beef to be a little on the rough side - perhaps the meat was too lean.  I prefer it to be stewed longer until the meat is tender and streaky.  Those who enjoy thick sauces will definitely appreciate this dish which is drowned in its own gravy.

Beef rendang

For the ikan assam pedas, red snapper was used which was a good choice since the meat of this fish has a firm texture and a sweet, nutty flavor that lends itself very well to everything from hot chili to subtle herbs.  The gravy has a combination taste of sweet, sour and hot which is how a good assam pedas should be.

Ikan Assam Pedas

To make the perfect accompaniment for the terong tau chio, the kitchen staff prepares the special sauce daily.  The main ingredients of the sauce includes preserved soya beans, diced chili and garlic. The eggplant is blanched in boiling water and very quickly taken out to prevent it from getting overcooked.  The cook succeeded in preventing the eggplant from becoming too soft and soggy or undercooked and raw, for that matter. 

Terong tau chio

Ayam Gulai is a watery version of kari ayam and normally less milky, hot and spicy.  Unlike curry which uses thick coconut milk, diluted coconut milk is used in gulai and therefore not so jelak.  The chicken was very tender yet remained as a whole piece and not disintegrated. Overall, this was a satisfying dish.

Ayam gulai

We had originally planned to order petai udang pedas but it was sold out.  So, we settled for the prawn stir-fried with asparagus in sambal belacan.  I didn't think asparagus went very well with sambal belacan and therefore did not enjoy this dish.  When ordering this dish, indicate to the waiter whether you prefer your prawns denuded.

Prawn stir-fried with asparagus in sambal belacan

As there were three of us, we decided to order one dessert each to share.  The pudding lapis mangga was pretty to look at but tasted ordinary.  My alpukat or avocado cream had a good creamy texture but that was the only good thing about it.  The gula melaka was too sweet although it looked diluted!  However the sirsak sorbet was very good.  The soursop pulp was blended very fine before chilling which made it very smooth.

Over the years (from its Duxton days right up to the present), Pagi Sore has managed to maintain consistency in standards which is why I keep going back there.  It is one of my favourite Indonesian restaurants.

Pagi Sore
88-90 Telok Ayer Street
Singapore 048470

Ambiance: 7

Service: 7.5

Food: 8
Pricing: $$

Recommendations: Ikan otah kukus, petai udang pedas, cumi bali, sirsak sorbet, ikan assam pedas, ayam bali