Food for Thought: Peramakan @ Santa Grand East Coast

Last month's bloggers' event, on 30 October, was at the newly opened Peramakan at Santa Grand Hotel East Coast.

Our small group of bloggers tried out the most basic of all Peranakan dishes - ayam buah keluak, babi pongteh,  sambal udang petai, sotong goreng assam, ikan garam assam, and udang masak kuah nanas.  We also ordered  some dishes that were of either Malay or Indonesian origins that have become Peranakan standards, such as kerabu jantung pisang, sotong panggang, sayur nangka, and beef rendang.

Kerabu Jantung Pisang 

We could not have been served a more appropriate opening item than kerabu jantung pisang.  It makes for the  perfect start to an enjoyable evening of Peranakan fare.  The prawns were fresh and so were the shredded mango.  There can be nothing worse than using over-seasoned mango that has become limp and soggy.  Using the correct portion of sambal belacan and lime juice, the Chef  succeeded in creating a salad that has the right balance of tanginess and spiciness.  A really great dish that I personally enjoyed very very much. 

Ayam Buah Keluak

This is the quintessential Peranakan dish and therefore a signature dish in most or almost all authentic Peranakan restaurants.  In days of yore, a prospective mother-in-law would assess the would be daugther-in-law's culinary skill by judging how well she cooks this dish.  The rempah was thick (a good thing) and the kuah had the right degree of tanginess.  Overall a very good dish although I would have preferred the chicken to be more tender.  In fact, this dish is best eaten overnight when it has been re-boiled until the chicken meat falls off the bones.

Babi Pongteh

I found the babi pongteh very tasty although it was lacking a special flavour which I will elaborate later.  I was glad that the Chef chose to use pork belly over other leaner parts of the pig.  Like the ayam buah keluak, the rempah was thick with just the right amount of taucheo.  A good babi pongteh should derive its saltiness from taucheo and not an overdose of soya sauce - a mistake often made by many cooks.  My only complaint was the absence of bamboo shoot which would have given that special aroma unique to this dish.  And, of course, the green chilli would have traditionally been served whole instead of in bite-size pieces.

Kuah Assam Pedas

Tasting more like kuah assam pedas, I really couldn't tell it apart from the ikan garam assam. except that prawn instead of fish was being served.  To me, a good kuah nanas should have heavy accents of serai, pineapple and some fresh herbs.  The herbs were noticeably absent from the dish.

Sambal Petai

Sambal petai is my favourite accompaniment to my meal. I am glad the Chef didn't disappoint me by making it too sweet or, worse still, by chopping them up into tiny bits.  I am alright with opening the peas into halves; in fact this is necessary to ensure that only the healthy ones that are not infested with worms, are used.

Ikan Garam Assam

Definitely a better dish than the udang masak kuah nanas, its gravy was thick and red.  Some Peranakan families would like their ikan garam assam really red and fiery hot.  I guess at Peramakan, they had to tone it down to cater to the taste buds of its customers. The fish, brinjal and okra were all cooked just nice.  Overall, a very satisfying dish.

Sotong Goreng Assam

The sotong goreng assam was too sweet for my liking.  In fact, the sweetness of the dark  sauce completely overpowered the tanginess of the assam.  To achieve the right balance of taste for this dish, the equation should be 1 portion of dark soya sauce to every 5 portion of tamarind juice.  For that extra kick, the dish should be seasoned with white pepper.  This was not a stand-out dish for me. 

We were served four types of desserts - apom berkuah, pulot hitam, durian pengat and bubur cha cha.

Apom Berkuah

Of all the desserts served, I like the apom berkuah the most.  The kuah was thick and creamy with huge chunks of banana in it - just the way I like it.  And it tasted the most authentic.  

The dining experience at Peramakan, though not spectacular, was enjoyable.  There were some really great dishes and, sadly, a couple of misses which I very quickly forgot after dinner was over.   This was so perhaps because the staff and Chef were pleasant, courteous and apologetic, taking in our criticism in good stride.

Peramakan at Santa Grand Hotel East Coast
171 East Coast Road
http://www.streetdirectory.com/peramakan/


Service:  7/10
Ambiance: 6.5/10
Food:  6.5/10
Price:  $$
Recommended dishes:  Kerabu jantung pisang, ayam buah keluak, babi pongteh, sambal udang petai, apom berkuah

Food for Thought: Fu Shi Traditional Roast

Many bloggers have sung high praises about Fu Shi's roasted meat.  This prompted me to take a stroll to Shunfu Mart and Food Centre, straight after morning Mass at Holy Spirit Church. By the time I arrived there, a long queue had already formed.

The long queue ... you need to be patient.

I waited in line for about 20 minutes and kept assuring myself that it was worth the long queue.  And indeed it was worth it!  What I got for all of S$7.00 were a plate of rice with 3 types of meat - char siew, sio bak and roast duck - and a small bowl of wonton soup.

3 types of meat on rice

Wonton soup

The char siew and sio bak were both quite outstanding.  Its texture and taste reminded me of the ones served at the now defunct Kok Wah coffee shop in Chinatown along New Bridge Road.  What makes the roasted meat here so special is its preparation.  The stall owner cooks his meats using the traditional method of drum-roasting which ensures that the meat gets evenly roasted all round while keeping the inside tender and juicy.  Besides the roasting method, he also uses the right marinades following old school recipes.

My favourite is, hands down, the char siew.  If you enjoy caramelised crisp of fatty meat, then you will surely fall in love with Fu Shi's char siew.  My first bite of the char siew was all it took to convince me that Fu Shi is going to be on my list of best Cantonese roasts in Singapore.  The piece of meat was so well charred on the outside, yet the inside did not taste, at all, overcooked.  I guess the best way to describe Fu Shi's char siew would be, "Crispy outside, tender inside".

The sio bak is also extremely good.  The meat has a slight pinkish hue to it.  I believe the owner must have used fermented bean curd which, according to old school recipes, is an essential ingredient for marinating the slab of meat and allowing it to rest for a few hours (or even overnight) before the roasting begins.  Although the skin was badly charred, it still lacked the crackle.  But this didn't really matter because the meat was really tasty and tender.

I award top marks for the char siew and sio bak.

I wasn't so impressed with the roast duck which I felt was a little gamey even though the meat was tender.  Other than that, there was really nothing special about the duck.

Fu Shi Traditional Roasted & Wonton Mee

Block 320 Shunfu Road

#02-25 Shunfu Mart & Food Center

Singapore

Food:   9

Pricing: $

Recommended dishes: Char Siew, Sio Bak

Food for Thought: Kuru Kuru's Ala Carte Dinner Buffet

Kuru Kuru's "value for money champion" is truly, in every sense of the word, a value-for-money dining experience.  The ala carte dinner buffet, priced at $30++ per adult, offers close to 135 different dishes ranging from the typically Japanese sashimi and sushi to some interesting fusion dishes.

The Chef  has thoughtfully created manageable portions of almost everything on the menu.  This allows diners to nibble and sample as many dishes as possible without feeling the pangs of over-eating.

Variety is the order of the day at Kuru Kuru and guests are spoilt for choices.  Menu items include selections of starters and salads, sashimi, sushi, temaki, tempura, hotpot, grilled items, fried items, soup, noodles among others.  There is even a novel section of Yoshoko (or Western-influenced Japanese dishes).

Sashimi - Chef's selected cuts.

Seafood and vegetable hotpot

Sushi

 Grilled Capelin

 Tempura Prawn

One of my favourite dishes was the grilled mid-joint chicken wing.  It was noticeably a simple dish yet it showcased the freshness of the ingredients picked and used by the Chef.  Although the chicken was well cooked right down to its bones, it was not overdone nor did it taste like 'stale wood pulp'.  In fact, the meat was, surprisingly, tender and moist while the skin was crisp and very lightly charred - just the way I like it.

Grilled mid-joint chicken wing

There are a variety of desserts available but of these, the Maacha (Green Tea) Ice Cream with red bean and the Cherry dumplings deserve special mention.

Green Tea ice cream with red beans

Cherry Dumplings

Kuru Kuru provides the perfect setting for friends to gather and chat over a meal.  You and your friends can be certain that the waiting staff will not hurry you through your meal.  And for sure, you won't get that horrible feeling of being chased away. 

Kuru Kuru Japanese Restaurant

491 River Valley Road

#01-07 Valley Point Office Tower

Singapore 248371
http://www.streetdirectory.com/kurukuru/

Ambiance:  6

Food: 7

Service: 7.5

Pricing: $$ (Value-for-money)

Food for Thought: Bonta Italian Restaurant & Bar

Bonta, brainchild of Chef Luca Pezzera, is definitely one of the better Italian restaurants one can find in Singapore these days. It was voted “Best Restaurant 2009” by Singapore Tatler.

Born in Bergamo in Northern Italy, Chef Luca knew from young that his destiny was in the culinary industry.  After graduating from the prestigious San Pellegrino School of Hoteliers, he embarked on a culinary adventure that has seen him cook for the rich and famous in some of the best restaurants around the world before finally settling in Singapore.

Chef Luca loves cooking as it allows him to be creative.  To him, each dish is like a work of art, where textures and flavours of different ingredients are combined meticulously to achieve perfection.  And so you can expect more than just good food; you get to enjoy also the visual artistry.

Our 4-course dinner consisted of an antipasto, a pasta dish, one meat dish and dessert.  The 24-month old Parma ham with buffalo mozarella set the tone for what was coming later.  The robust flavour of the thinly sliced Parma ham is well balanced by the mozarella which has a more subtle taste than other northern Italian cheeses.

Parma ham with buffalo mozarella

Parma ham, said to be the true prosciutto, has a unique taste.  It is both sweet and savoury at the same time, the result of its time tested method of salting, curing and maturing.   So called because it originates from the northern province of Parma which is also famous for its Parmesan cheese.  Like many specialty foods around the world, the production of Parma ham is tightly regulated to ensure a level of consistent quality.  To begin with, the only breeds allowed to be turned into Parma ham are the Landrance and Duroc pigs which are fed on a special chestnut and whey diet.

The pasta dish consisted of house tagliatelle, tossed in virgin olive oil and served withTiger Prawn and porcini.  Porcini is described by renowned Italian chef and restaurateur Antonio Carluccio, as representing "the wild mushroom par excellence". 

Tagliatelle with Tiger Prawn and Porcini

The pasta was al dente and the prawn was done just right.  Most restaurants tend to overcook Tiger prawn rendering it hard, dry and tasteless.  The porcini was very lightly sauteed thus retaining its distinctive nutty flavour and its smooth, creamy texture.  Everything about this dish was just perfect.

Grilled Black Angus Tenderloin

The  grilled black angus tenderloin served with tuscan potato in barolo sauce far exceeded my expectations.  Tenderloin, as we all know, is the most tender of all cuts and also leaner.  The meat of the Black Angus cow, on the other hand, has a distinct marbling that adds to its flavour.  Both these properties made for a steak that is tasty and tender.  The lightly marinated cut of beef was enhanced by the barolo sauce which has as its base, the full-bodied dry red Barolo wine.  Barolo which hails from the northern region of Piedmont in Italy, is often described as Italy's best wine.

Mango Gelato

For dessert, I had home-made mango gelato encrusted in chopped pistachio, served with berry compote.  I love the gelato which has a slightly coarse texture just like the Northern Indian kulfi.  Kulfi happens to be one of my all-time favourite desserts.  Enough said!

Bonta Italian Restaurant and Bar

207 River Valley Road, #01-61 UE Square River Wing

(at the corner of Mohamed Sultan Road and Unity Street)
Singapore 238275 

Ambiance:  8

Food:  9

Service: 7

Pricing: $$$$

Recommended Dishes: Grilled Black Angus Tenderloin; Parma ham with buffalo mozarella; Tagliatelle served with Tiger Prawn and porcini; home-made mango gelato

Food for Thought: Bistro du Vin

A member of the Les Amis group of restaurants, Bistro du Vin sets out to serve traditional French food like the ones you would find in a family-run bistro in Paris' Ile de la Cite.  Chef de Cuisine, Dalton Fong, visited restaurants throughout France to learn to cook honest-to-goodness French dishes.  Of the restaurants he worked in, was La Regalade where he understudied Chef Maria Goncalves, a close friend of the Les Amis group. On returning to Singapore, he tweaked some of the recipes to suit the local climate although he tries, as far as possible, to keep close to the roots of French bistro cooking.

Its ala carte menu includes French bistro staples such as Assiette of pork pâté, duck pâté & duck rillette; French onion soup; duck leg confit; Coq Au Vin; slow-cooked lamb shank; freshly baked Madeleine; and Mont Blanc.

For me it was an extremely tough choice between the duck leg confit, Coq au Vin and the lamb shank - three of my favourite French meat dishes.  After much vacillation, I opted for the Coq au Vin, a decision made with the help of the knowledgeable waiter.  I was happy with my choice - half a chicken braised in red wine with carrot, mushroom, pearl onion and bacon, served with mashed potato.

Coq au vin 

Coq au Vin is a French braise of chicken (originally rooster or any tough bird), slow cooked with wine, lardon and mushrooms.  The most commonly used wine is Burgundy although there are variations using Jaune, Riesling, Beaujolais Nouveau and even Champagne.

Everything about the dish was 'honest-to-goodness' except for one slight deviation. Chef Dalton has substituted bacon for lardon.  The French version of lardon is actually cubes of pork fat cured with salt and this is used in French cooking for larding in meat braising or roasting.  The dish would have tasted much richer had lardon been used.

The preparation of Coq au Vin is, in fact, very similar to that of beef bourguignon.  The chicken is first marinated in wine, then seared in fat and slowly simmered until tender. The usual seasonings are salt, pepper and a bouquet garni comprising thyme, parsley and bay leaf.  The juices are thickened either by making a small roux at the beginning of cooking, or by adding blood at the end.

Darling wife and Laura ordered the pan-roasted Berkshire pork chop topped with caramelized shallot, garlic and mashed potato on the side.  Although it did appear a little pink (a sign of under-cooking), we realised later that this is actually one of the characteristics of Berkshire pork.  Its taste was sublime. 

Berkshire Pork Chop

Berkshires are very sought after especially now when there are not more than 300 breeding sows recorded in the world notably in the UK, New Zealand and in Kagoshima prefecture, Japan.  The Japanese breed is more well known as Kagoshima Kurobuta.  Berkshire pork are prized for their juiciness, flavour and tenderness due mainly to its high fat content.  It is pink-hued and heavily marbled which makes it perfect for slow cooking over high temperature.

For appetizer, we had one portion of  baked Burgundian escargot in garlic herb butter and French onion soup served with cheese and croutons. 

Baked Burgundian Escargot

French Onion Soup

Our meal befittingly ended with a Creme Brulee and Tarte au pommes with vanilla ice cream shared between the 3 of us.  The apple pie was outstanding.

Creme Brulee

Tarte au Pommes

Bistro du Vin

1 Scotts Road

#02-12 Shaw Centre

Ambiance:  8

Service: 8.5

Food: 7.5

Pricing: $$$$

Recommended dishes: Coq au Vin, Berkshire pork chop, Tarte au pommes with vanilla ice cream

Food for Thought: Iggy's

Iggy's needs no introduction.  It ranked as Asia's Number One restaurant in the 2011/2012 Miele Guide; and 27 in the S Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2010/2011.

The restaurant takes its name after its founder, award-winning Sommelier and restauranteur, Ignatius Chan.  It first opened its door as an intimate 28-seater at The Regent Hotel in 2004.  In March 2007, Iggy's expanded its seating capacity by double at its new outlet at The Hilton Hotel.

The cuisine at Iggy's is not entirely Continental although it has heavy European accents.  It is actually a combination of the best ingredients from Europe, Asia and Australia.  The Chef's Lunch Tasting Menu offered when we visited consisted of 6 exquisite dishes.

A very well presented dish of Hamachi was served as the starter.  We enjoyed the gratinated yellowtail (or Japanese amberjack) topped with slices of radish, fine herb salad and sesame lime dressing.  The slight tanginess of the lime dressing went well with the raw fish while the hint of sesame enhanced the taste of the radish.

Gratinated Yellowtail with Radish Slices, Herb Salad and Sesame Lime Dressing

A salad was served straight after the starter.  The salad was an interesting mix of mesclun, avocado, pomodoro and fragrant floral petals.  The floral petals really made the difference.  It also added colour to the dish.

Mesclun with avocado, pomodoro and fragrant floral petals

For soup, the chef had chosen mushroom cappucino.  This dish, to me, is quite obviously inspired by the ultimate culinary genius, Ferran Adria.   The soup is topped with foam and we know that food-foaming is a technique that Chef Ferran has given to the world of haute cuisine.

Mushroom Cappucino

Ocean clams on flavoured rice was served as entree before the main dish. The meat of the ocean clam is firmer in texture than other clams with a somewhat stronger taste. They are usually minced, chopped or cut into strips before they are suitable for the table.  Iggy's was very brave indeed to have served these ocean clams whole.  Surprisingly, they were still good in spite of my initial apprehension that it might be too chewy. 

Ocean Clams on Flavoured Rice

My much anticipated main dish was the confit of duck, one of my all-time favourite meat dishes.     The traditional method of preparing duck confit involves a centuries-old process of preservation consisting of salt curing and then poaching it in its own fat.  The poaching itself, normally over very low temperature, can take anything between four to ten hours until the meat is completely cooked.  It is then left to cool before it is preserved either in a can or jar in its fat for up to six months.  The preservation process is what gives this dish its uniquely rich taste.  Just before serving, the meat is fried or grilled in its fat until well-browned and crisp.  Iggy's version served with rosemary potato and mesclun was good but I cannot be too sure that it followed the traditional method of preparation.

Confit of Duck

The German chocolate was a befitting end to the meal.  Although I must say that it's presentation was quite similar to the deconstructed Black Forest Cake served at a different restaurant.  Food deconstruction, by the way, is another revolutionary method introduced to the culinary world by Chef Ferran.

Deconstructed Black Forest Cake

Iggy's
Level 3
The Hilton Hotel
581 Orchard Road
Singapore 238883

Ambiance:  9
Food:  8.5
Service:  9
Pricing: $$$$$
Recommended dishes: The menu is seasonal and there are 3 fixed menus (with different pricing ranging from S$85 upwards) to choose from.

My Thoughts for the Day: If I Were A Bird.

This morning I spent some time mingling with the residents at the Shelter’s patio – a favourite place for them to gather perhaps for a puff but more so for togetherness.

While the residents were engrossed in idle prattle, I sat there watching the birds.  Birds surely must be one of God’s most beautiful creations.  They are so light, so happy.  A little noisy sometimes but cheerfully so.   I watched them intently with great envy.

At that moment, I thought of St Francis of Assisi who had a gift for understanding birds and attracting them.

Surely, these birds must be God’s greatly favoured.  They need not worry what to wear or what to eat.  They have the freedom to come and go as they wish. 

This morning, they have chosen to remain on ground feeding on bits of bread and rice.  Yet, when they want, they may soar high up into the skies beyond the reach of mere human.  High up where they can talk, at close range, with their creator  – our Creator who sometimes appear so far away, so distant, so out of reach.

If I were a bird, I’d fly now to a place where no man has ever been or dare to tread; a place where time stands still.  And just be me.

It may have been a short break from work but, for me, it was a very precious moment spent in quiet contemplation.  

Food for Thought: Bangkok Thai Food

Over the years, many Thai eateries have sprouted all over Singapore in the heartlands, around the Bencoolen Street area and in major food centers.  Some are really quite good while others are just poor imitations of what you'll find along the busy Bangkok streets.  There is this place in Chinatown that I must recommend you.  In fact, this month alone, I have eaten 3 times at this no-frills food stall simply known as Bangkok Thai Food.

It is a self-service place, where you choose what you like from colourful numbered photographs pasted all over the stall front. Then you place your order with the counter staff.  If the names of the dishes are too long to read out, just provide the number of the dishes you want - 'one No. 13 and three No. 8'.  He'll scribble your order on a piece of paper and then shout the instructions to the cook in Thai.  It will make you feel like you are actually in Bangkok!

Tonight, after my tuina session at Tan Kim Cheong, I popped in at Bangkok Thai Food once again. My solo dinner consisted of 1 order of Garlic Chicken with rice and a 'sunny-side-up', a plate of stir-fried kang kong with bean paste, garlic and chili, and a complimentary bowl of plain tom yum soup.  All of these cost me S$7.

Garlic Chicken Rice with a 'sunny-side-up'

Stir-fried kang kong

Complimentary tom yum soup

If you are not expecting Royal Thai cuisine but are looking for a simple and wholesome Thai meal, then look no further.  Bangkok Thai Food's menu includes all the popular Thai street food like pineapple fried rice, olive rice, pad thai, garlic chicken with rice, basil chicken with rice, papaya salad and more.  Although it is not halal certified, the stall does not use pork or lard.  The best part of the whole deal is its pricing - very affordable with noodle and rice dishes around S$4 per portion.  Their daily specials priced at S$3 per portion are truly a bargain!

Like many of the roadside stalls in Bangkok, the taste is robust with a mixture of sweet, sour and hot.  I normally ask for 'hotter' and they have not disappointed me, so far. 

Bangkok Thai Food

#02-121 Kreta Ayer Food Center

Smith Street, Chinatown

Ambiance:  N/A

Food:  7

Pricing:  $

Recommended dishes: Stir-fried kang kong, Basil chicken with rice, tom yum fried rice, garlic chicken with rice.

Cooking for Love: Ushering in 2012 with Blessings

2012 started on just the right note, for wifey and I, with Fr Andrew Wong marking us with God's blessings and sharing with us a New Year cake to welcome Jesus into our home and hearts.

The New Year Cake with compliments of Fr Andrew

Michael and Lynna blessing our guests.  Shown here is Lydia.

Our guests blessing us in return.  Shown here is Vivian.

After the blessings of guests, Fr Andrew in his own uniquely playful manner, blessed the food before the guests tucked in the home-cooked nyonya fare.

For this special celebration, my food repertoire included 7 popular Nyonya dishes.  Like a true blue baba, I prepared everything from scratch following very strictly the method and recipe handed down from dearest mom.  Absolutely no ready mix was used.  The aroma of a wide array of herbs and spices wafted from the various pots and pans in the kitchen and any self-respecting gourmet would have sniffed out the fragrance of kunyit, lengkuas, serai, daun limau purut, chili kering, bawang putih, bawang kecil and belacan.  And here, you'll see the end result of all that chopping, frying, stirring and simmering:

Sambal Petai

Babi Pongteh

Ayam Buah Keluak

Nyonya Stewed Chap Chye

Sambal Udang Masak Merah

Acar Nanas

Nyonya Ba Mee

And of course, the guests besides enjoying the food also had a wonderful time browsing through our collectibles, chatting and catching up with the latest 'shop talks'.

The girls exchanging cooking tips.

Myra, Florence and Annie enjoying the food.

God-daughter Laura with Angela in their private cosy corner.

It has been a very good start to the new year and we look forward to hosting many more friends and relations for the rest of 2012.  A house is not a home if it is not filled with the presence and warmth of loved ones.