People and Places: Mondsee, the Moon Lake

Mondsee's colorful buildings 

Mondsee (Moon Lake), so named because of its crescent shape, lies in the Upper Austrian part of the Salzkammergut. Interestingly, it is one of Austria's last privately-owned lakes. In August of this year, its owner, Nicolette Waechter, announced that it was up for sale.

Sitting on the northwest corner of the lake shore is the pretty town which shares the name of the lake. The town of Mondsee, which was relatively unknown to the world, attracted international attention when it was chosen as the site for the filming of the wedding scene in 'The Sound of Music'.

A Benedictine abbey, dating from as far back as AD 748, was built here. However, when Emperor Josef II ordered the abbey dissolved in 1791, the abbey church became the Pfarrkirche or Parish Church. Another part of the abbey is now Schloss Mondsee. It was here that the filming of the wedding took place.

Pfarrkirche - the wedding in Sound of Music was shot here

The church has an added baroque exterior. Its interior is richly decorated by Meinrad Guggenbichler, who also designed seven of the more than dozen altars spread throughout its sanctuary.

Both castle and church are, today, points of interest for tourists.

The Advent Market which is held annually during the weeks leading up to Christmas is a well-known event in the region attracting thousands of visitors each year. Even if you are not in Mondsee for its Advent Market, the place is still worth a visit for its cakes and pastries. My personal recommendation is Konditorei Frauenschuh located in the main town centre.

One of my favourite cake shops - so glad I had the chance to revisit with my darling wife

This famous establishment, founded in the 1950s, is known by sweet lovers throughout Austria for its tempting pastries and chocolates. Once you step inside the bakery, you will be assailed by the aroma of pastries that have just been taken out from the oven and freshly ground coffee beans, not to mention the sweet smell of tarts and gateau. Its glass showcase displays racks of fruited and chocolate-covered confections for eat-in or take-away. Do not miss its apple strudel with ice cream or whipped cream, which after 5 decades, remains one of its most popular items.

Bus loads of tourists who make a perfunctory stopover in Mondsee will pack to go. If you are an indenpendent traveller, I strongly suggest taking your time to enjoy your beverage and cakes at one of its outdoor tables, and admire the Baroque facade of the Parish Church and the town centre's beautiful houses, which are painted in bright colours.

The bakery row

Konditorei Frauenschuh has been listed in the Frommer's Best Classic Cafes in Austria, joining the ranks of establishments such as Cafe Demel, Imperial and Landtmann in Vienna, Cafe Munding in Innsbruck, and Cafe Tomaselli in Salzburg.

During Easter of 2006, I re-visited this cafe-bakery for the 4th time, even though the journey took 13 hours of flight time from Singapore to Vienna, 3 hours of train ride from Vienna to Salzburg, and another 90 minutes by bus from Salzburg to Mondsee.

The trouble that I am willing to go through just to get there goes to prove how much I love this institution of old-fashioned Austrian charm. It serves cakes and pastries that are far more imaginative, creative and delicious than the world-renown but (in my opinion) over-rated Sacher Hotel in Vienna.

Frauenschuh's apple strudel is world famous and is to die for. On this trip, however, I made the very tough decision to sacrifice it for a Layered Opera instead. But I was not at all disappointed with my choice.  Darling wife's Poppy Seed Cake was unequalled in both taste and uniqueness.  Laura's Banana Cream Cake was really out of this world, it was heavenly. Our ensemble of cakes made for a very pretty photograph.

The ensemble of cakes 

Black sesame cake

Banana Chocolate Mousse cake

We sat at one of the outdoor tables from where we could eat and drink, people-watch, and take in the sights. Since we were not in a hurry, we took things leisurely to match Mondsee's unrushed pace. We sat and stare, took in the atmosphere and completely surrendered ourselves to its laidback lifestyle.

Sipping tea and watching the world go by.

Konditorei Frauenschuh has received rave reviews from satisfied customers hailing from all corners of the world.  I have no reason to disagree.

In my journal entry, I made a note of Konditorei Frauenschuh as 'The Pride of Mondsee'.


Konditorei Frauenschuh
Marktplatz 8
Mondsee, Salzkammergut
Austria

Ambiance: 8.5/10
Service: 6/10
Food: 8.5/10
Pricing: $$
Recommended dishes: Apple Strudel, Banana Cream Cake, Layered Opera

People and Places: Ferran Adria-Pride of Catalan

Catalonia fascinates. The Catalonians enthrall.

Barcelona, capital of Catalonia, is a colourful and vibrant city with a wide variety of attractions and activities to cater to every passion and interest. Similarly, the region of Catalonia.

But it is its people, so steadfast in upholding their heritage, whom I find to be most attractive and charming.

Catalan, the native language, is still taught at school. The region boasts of its own cuisine and there are restaurants at practically every street corner specialising in Catalan dishes. Every weekend, Catalonians don their national costumes and dance the Sardana, their national folk dance, in public parks and squares.

Of course, Catalonia has many citizens it can and should be proud of. Consider Gaudi and Bofill, Dali and Miro, Calders and Pedrolo, Albeniz and Cugat, Montserrat and Carreras, Hernandez and Puyol, and many other contemporaries whose names have filled the pages of the International Who's Who.

Today, I would like to focus my attention and yours on just one person - Ferran Adria. He is a world renown Catalan chef who has topped the European Restaurant Ranking and has often been referred to as the 'Salvador Dali of the kitchen'.

At the age of 18, Adria left school out of boredom and started his career as a dishwasher at the Hotel Playafels in Castelldefels, Catalonia. Then, he became a cook in the army. At 22, he was a line cook or apprentice at El Bulli (Costa Brava, Catalonia). He was later promoted to be its Head Chef.

Under Adria's direction, El Bulli has been awarded 3 Michelin Stars. In 2002, it took 2nd place in "Restaurant Top 50' - the authoritative listing of the world's top restaurants. Then in 2006, it displaced The Fat Duck in England to win the coveted 1st position. El Bulli continued to remain in this top position in 2007 and 2008.

El Bulli closes for six months every year in order for Adria to travel out of Spain, in search of new inspiration and ideas with which to tantalise and beguile his guests. He also spends much of his time in his 'laboratory workshop' near Barcelona where he experiments with new tastes and techniques.

A molecular creation

Known as a practitioner of 'molecular gastronomy', Adria is also famous for his creation, the 'culinary foam' and his impressive 30-course gourmet menu; and won adulations from food critics and fellow chefs for his 'deconstructivist' cooking style. He has also authored several cookbooks including A Day at El Bulli, El Bulli 2003-2004 and Cocinar en Casa (Cooking at Home).

Superstar chef Paul Bocuse says this of Adria - "he's doing the most exciting things in our profession today." Time 100 described Adria as a "constantly moving impresario of gastronomic innovation".

Chef Ferran Adria's philosophy is best summed up in his own candid quote - "the ideal customer doesn't come to El Bulli to eat but to have an experience."

His story is as fascinating as the place where he belongs.

My Thoughts For The Day: A Bed of Roses

We often hear people wishing life was 'a bed of roses'. And I wonder why?

A bed of roses is pretty; it is a visual feast for the eye.

It is also inviting; its fragrance so hypnotic, it entices you with its scent.

It is definitely tempting; its beauty so alluring, you'll be seduced into picking it (for a loved one, perhaps).

But be careful, be very wary; you might be pricked by the rose's vengeful thorns. For the rose is indeed deceitful.

The bed of roses is just like life itself. Life is made up of many happy moments, many wonderful and unforgettable experiences. But every now and then, it places obstacles and challenges in our way and we get hurt.

We can't foretell the time of happening. We can't fathom the depth of its pain. And it is impossible to predict the tide and term of the suffering. The only thing we do know, and that is the only certainty, is it can and will happen. But, fortunately for many of us, we take comfort in the knowledge that, by faith, all injuries can be healed.

This world we live in is an imperfect one. Like the bed of roses, the world is a beautiful place to be in. Alas, like the roses in the bed, the world can be deceptive and its inhabitants, deceitful!

Once, a Buddhist friend told me that we were all born into this world to suffer. This reminds me of what my Catholic priest told me: first wear the crown of thorns, experience the suffering Christ, then you may rejoice in his resurrection.

So, isn't life already like a bed of roses? Why wish it to be like one?

Shouldn't we wish, instead, for life to be like a field of lilies (or golden daffodils)?

William Blake wrote:

The modest Rose puts forth a thorn,
The humble sheep a threat’ning horn:
While the Lily white shall in love delight,
Nor a thorn nor a threat stain her beauty bright.

People and Places: Cranford Rose Garden

One of the prettiest gardens in New York City has to be the Cranford Rose Garden at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden.



It opened in 1928 to a design by acclaimed landscape architect, Harold Caparn, who was also responsible for the hugely successful design of the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. Today, Cranford has earned for itself the righful place as one of the largest and finest rose gardens in the US.



The garden is planted with over 5,000 bushes representing some 1,200 varieties, including rare collections such as the Crenshaw Musk, Walsh Ramblers, Van Fleet hybrids and the Brownell hybrids.



When you are there, remember to stop and smell the roses and take your time to admire and appreciate its display comprising tens of thousands of roses cascading from archways, creeping up trellises, clambering over canopies, and posing in fancy flower beds.



This is truly paradise for avid lovers of the rose.

Above are photographs taken during my last visit to the gardens.

Cranford Rose Garden
Brooklyn Botanic Garden
1000 Washington Avenue
Brooklyn, New York City

My Thoughts For The Day: On Success

Some time back, my sister asked me, "What is the meaning of success?"

That prompted me to think what the word 'success' really meant to me.

After a couple of weeks, I felt I could write an essay on the subject and then post it to my sister to share with her. That same essay, somehow, grew to become a book. Yes, there is indeed so much to be said about success that only a book would have done justice to such an important topic.

But now, after many months of pondering over the word 'success', I think I can actually write a whole encyclopedia, with different volumes covering its various aspects:

Volume 1 - Success in Studies
Volume 2 - Success in Career
Volume 3 - Success in Love
Volume 4 - Success in Marriage
Volume 5 - Success in Family Life
Volume 6 - Success in Community Life
Volume 7 - Success in Leadership
Volume 8 - Success in Overcoming Difficulties
Volume 9 - Success in Self-fulfilment
Volume 10 - Success in Self-actualisation
Volume 11 - Success in the Spiritual Path
and I may just add a few more volumes along the way.

I have come to realise one thing though and that is, our lives are made up of many small successes or different phases of successes.

As little tots, we grappled with many things of the world that were new and unfamiliar to us such as crawling and walking, talking and eating solid food. Each time we managed to learn something new, we met with success. At that time, these successes didn't seem so minor at all. In fact, to be able to take his first step meant a great deal to a tiny tot, let alone to his parents, who would have been filled with pride and joy on watching baby achieve his first success in life.

As we grow older, we sometimes forget about our first steps in life, about learning to ride a bike, about passing our PSLE because they do not seem so important anymore when compared to the greater challenges we face today.

As adults, we fight monumental wars at work, we work hard to climb the corporate ladder, we try to strike a balance between career and marriage, some even have to contend with complicated or failed relationships, while others have to battle difficulties such as painful separations, fears and phobia or incurable illnesses.

Our minds get over-crowded with all of the hardship and adversities we face in our everyday lives that we forget about our past successes in life - they just don't matter anymore, they don't figure in our life anymore, they dim in significance.

What we really are forgetting here is this - that it would not have been possible for any one of us to achieve any of our later and subsequent successes had we not taken our first step!

But the question remains - what exactly does success mean? Ask 100 people and we will probably get 100 differing answers. This is because success can mean so many different things to different people, all of whom are living at different levels or phases of their lives. Not two persons in this world can be precisely the same.

But I do know one thing for sure. No matter which phase we are going through now, I believe that there will be a very strong correlation between our success determinator and our value system.

Ask yourself this. At this stage of your life , is it important to make your 1st million dollars by a certain year? Are you targeting to get married by a certain age? Is caring for your aged parents your first priority? Do you feel the need to fight the injustices of this world and right the wrongs?

Depending on what holds true for us in terms of values, the greatest success in life, to me at this moment, is to be able to put our finger to what we truly believe in, and then direct our whole being, all our strength, energy and ability towards achieving that belief. That belief is what I would refer to as our personal TRUTH in life.

Ideally, of course, our personal truth should consist of all the ingredients of the universal Truth.

Only when we have attained our Truth can we rest on our laurels and say to ourselves, 'I have been successful, at last!".

People and Places: Melbourne

Melbourne, capital of the State of Victoria, is workplace and home to one of the most culturally diverse communities in the world. Its population of 3.8 million represents residents from nearly 150 countries from the different continents.

Like other major cities of the world (New York and London, for example) Melbourne is made up of various precincts, each with its own unique character, colour and charm. Culturally individualistic precincts such as Chinatown and Little Italy, transport visitors back to their own homes.

But what places Melbourne in top position as the best Australian city to live in and to visit, is its food and cafe culture, representing almost every type of cuisine found on the face of the earth. It was once said that within just one square mile of Fitzroy, one is able to sample the different cuisine of the 5 main continents. In fact, no one can lay claim to have experienced gastronomic Melbourne without having explored and dined at Brunswick Street in Fitzroy.

Brunswick Street is the most fascinating spot in town being Melbourne’s most vibrant, extreme and lively street. The young bohemian crowd makes Fitzroy a lively place to be at. This is where you’ll find some of the best food, the weirdest shops, the most interesting people, the wildest clothes and the wackiest waiters.

In particular, the blocks on either side of the Johnson Street intersection have a fascinating collection of young designer and retro clothing shops, bookshops, galleries, nurseries, antique dealers and, of course, dozens of great cafes, bars and restaurants. It’s also the street that best reflects Melbourne’s multiculturalism and obsession with food. Here you'll find Thai, Indian, Turkish, Greek, Italian, French, Malaysian, even Ethiopian and Afghan restaurants. You can virtually tour round the culinary world in just three blocks.

We have dined at several places here on Brunswick Street and there are two which have found favours with us. One is Creem (416-418 Brunswick Street), which is host to a very young uppity crowd and offers Australian fusion. Its décor is sort of mixed laid-back Aussie comfort and classy Double Bay savoir faire. The other is Lazar Steakhouse (87 Johnson Street), which serves some of the best steaks in the city. Unlike many newer establishments in Fitzeroy which adopts the latest trend in food, Lazar prides itself in serving hearty old fashioned fare. I have been told that they hang their meat for weeks until they are properly cured before they even get cooked and sent to the table.




Acland Street at the far end of Fitzroy Street in St Kilda is another of my favourite precincts. Strolling through Acland will transport you to Continental Europe and its cafe culture. Come here on a Sunday morning. After a hearty breakfast at one of Acland Street's cafe, you can proceed to St Kilda sunday market to pick up some hot deals and souvenirs to bring home. The market is held along Fitzroy Street on the beach side.




And if time permits, be a little more adventurous and board the ferry from St Kilda Pier and head for Williamstown for its famous fish and chips.

Food For Thought: Tatsuya

Definitely one of the better Japanese fine cuisine restaurants around, Tatsuya, has since its opening in 2000 established for itself a reputation for fresh sashimi flown in from Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market. According to a review in Flavor, owner Ronnie Chia ensures that his restaurant consistently features a good spectrum of the season's best, direct from Japan.

When you come to Tatsuya, you should be there with only one thing in focus - good and fresh food with equally pretty presentation. Do not be unduly concerned about decor or service. Its not that they are not good, but these are not Tatsuya's strongest points.

We settled for the Chef's kaiseki menu. This menu offers 10 courses specially created by the Chef using only the freshest ingredients that are available for the day. So there is really no fixed menu, as such. On our last visit, the 10 courses included 2 very interesting appetizers - baby taro followed by gingko nuts with lotus roots. The baby taro was served whole in its skin. The lotus roots were very thinly sliced and deep-fried to perfection. There was no 'unpleasant' after taste. The Japanese gingko nuts were encrusted in a crystallised coating which gave it tinge of sweetness.

Japanese gingko nuts with crispy fried lotus roots

Baby taro done 2 ways

Next we were served a clear wild mushroom broth spiced with a specially air-flown herb from Hokkaido. This was followed by a dish of simmered aubergine and prawns. The aubergines were superb but I found the prawns to be a little over done. I would have preferred it to be just lightly sauteed so that its crunchiness could be retained. To me, simmering is not the best method for preparing prawns.

Simmered aubergine and prawns

The highlight of the meal came next - a platter of sashimi airflown from Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market. The platter consisted of thick cuts of the most popular sashimi items from sweet salmon to melt-in-the-mouth tuna. Tatsuya's sashimi is certainly the restaurant's best selling point. A serving of vegetable tempura accompanied the sashimi platter.

Vegetable tempura - as an accompaniment

Cooked fish followed its raw relation. Saba is one of my favourite fish and Tatsuya does theirs so well, I vote it the best I have eaten in Singapore.

Pan-fried saba

The finale of the Chef's sampler meal comprised two very individualistic dishes - the sushi platter and chawan munshi. As most of us are already aware, Tatsuya maintains very high standards when it comes to making sushi. The rice was fragrant and rolled to a perfect texture. Also each piece of sushi was made of only half a thumb size of rice, which is the way it should be. Every single sushi took pride of place on the platter. The unagi was so soft you hardly had to chew on it. The beef was tender beyond description and like the tuna sashimi, melted in the mouth. The grilled prawn was juicy and was good on its own with or without its fish roe topping.

Chef's Sushi Platter - the choicest cut

The chawan munshi was very smooth and light with a slight overlay of citrus flavour which was what set it aside (or rather above) from all others.

Chawan munshi with citrus flavouring

The dessert included in the meal was Japaneses-style Cheese Cake.

Japanese cheese cake

A meal at Tatsuya is guaranteed to satisfy even the most discriminating gourmet.

There are, unfortunately, some downsides to the restaurant. Firstly, the place is small and can get overcrowded and noisy. Secondly, some of the staff were heard talking at the top of their voices which distracted me from fully enjoying my meal.
.

Tatsuya Japanese Restaurant
#01-05 Park Hotel
270 Orchard Road
Tel: 67371160

Moved to Goodwood Park Hotel
 

Ambiance: 5/10
Service: 6.5/10
Food: 8.75/10
Pricing: $$$$$
Recommended dishes: Chef's sampler menu, any of its sashimi and sushi platter

People and Places: Bangkok Street Food

While Bangkok boasts of some really top-class restaurants, it also offers, at the other end of the spectrum, a wide range of local delights sold by Bangkok's ubiquitous hawkers who set up stalls by the kerbside of its main streets, or even by the roadside in some dark alleys off the main thoroughfares, where you least expect there to be food.

Their displays are always colourful and interesting. But street food is not for the faint-hearted.

To begin with, there is the concern for hygiene. This, to me, can easily be resolved. I recommend the newbie to Thailand to stick with eating food that is cooked on the spot like Phad Thai, fried rice, roti prata etc or food that is kept hot like piping hot Thai-style chng tng.

Then there is food that is for the adventurous only and definitely not for the faint-hearted. Stuff like deep-fried scorpions, giant red ants, cicada, grasshoppers and braised innards may sound horrifying to many of us but these are delicacies to the locals.

If you find street food to be frighteningly out of this world, worry not.

There are actually quite many decent roadside stalls that have their own daily supply of clean water. One of such would be the BBQ seafood simply called 'First Stall in Yaowaraj', Chinatown. Its Teochew-speaking owner is always ready to welcome foreigners with his beaming smile and is quick to recommend his finest catch of the day, usually his crabs, river prawns or seabass. He is able to prepare the catch in different styles to your preference. I highly recommend barbequed or steamed for his live crabs although he can also prepare them in black pepper, curry, fried in scallions and ginger or in a dozen other ways. I love his fresh river prawns grilled to a light char and eaten with a hot chilli dip. Chomp down your seafood, not with Singha, but his thick guava juice which is really fantastic. And for dessert, try his home-made bird's nest soup with gingko nuts.

Food For Thought: Gasthaus Kanzler Biener

As I was writing my post for today's People and Places, I was prompted to write about Gasthaus Kanzler Biener Restaurant Café Bar, which commands a strategic position in Rattenberg's pedestrianised precinct.

We were attracted to the restaurant by its large lunch crowd. Most of them were sitting outside by the sidewalk where they could eat, drink and people-watch.

The menu is predominantly Austro-Germanic with an inviting range of authentic Tyrolean fare. I had Tyrolean dumplings in a cream sauce topped with chopped chives and bacon bits (Austria's version of the Italian gnocchi). This dish is served with fresh green salad. Darling L had Goulash soup with bread and salad.

As you can see, our lunch was fairly light which is unusual for me. This was because we had a heavy breakfast at the hotel.

Tyrolean dumplings with chopped chives and bacon bits

Goulash soup

Both dishes were up to notch.

A meal at Kanzler Biener should not be rushed through. Take your time to savour every single morsel of the chef's creation. After lunch, chat over coffee or quietly watch the world go by. After all, a day in Rattenberg should be taken at a slow pace in order to appreciate its beauty in entirety.

Gasthaus Kanzler Biener comes with my personal recommendations. You will not walk away from a meal here, feeling unfulfilled.

Gasthaus Kanzler Biener Restaurant Cafe Bar
46 Sudtirolerstrasse
Rattenberg, Austria

Ambiance: 8/10

Service: 5/10

Food: 7.5/10
Pricing: $$$

Recommended dishes: Tyrolean Dumplings, Goulash soup

People and Places: Rattenberg

This afternoon, while cataloging my holiday pictures, I came across some very pretty ones of the relatively unknown town of Rattenberg in the Tyrol region. Because it is so uniquely beautiful, I want to share its secret with you.

Although popular among Austrians and possibly with its neighbouring Germans, Swiss and northern Italians, it is still not widely publicised to the rest of the world. You won't get to see many Asians here as I have observed during both my visits in 1986 and more recently in 2006.

With a population not exceeding 450, Rattenberg is officially the smallest town in Austria. It is located between the River Inn and the Rat Mountains in what appears to be a very narrow strip of land.

Located in the shadows of the mountains meant very little sunlight for its inhabitants. Rattenberg receives almost no sunlight during its winter months and is one of the few places of significant distance from the Artic circle that lives in total darkness throughout winter. To combat this problem, the town installed a US$2.4million project of rotating mirrors to reflect sunlight to the main parts of the town.

Its main street, the pedestrianised Sudtirolerstrasse may not be as long or wide as the Champs Elysee in Paris, but it certainly can lay claim to being one of the prettiest main streets in the world. The buildings lining it are painted in striking colours - some pastel, others rich and warm - and house mainly hotels, pensions, restaurants, cafes, specialty shops and, of course, crystal boutiques.

There is an abundance of glass blowers in Rattenberg. Hence its streets are lined with many glass blowers' workshops and galleries. You can pick up small souvenirs like crystal animals and angels to bring home which are relatively inexpensive compared to what similar shops would charge in larger cities.

Local tourists who come to Rattenberg do so mainly to take advantage of the outdoors. Its environs offer much opportunities for skating, skydiving and cycling. The Innradweg cycling trail leads through Rattenberg .